A Journey to the Irish Royal Hill of Tara

Céad Míle Fáilte – and welcome to your Letter from Ireland for this week. The countryside is bursting with new life here in County Cork, with wildflowers dotting the hedgerows and lambs frolicking in the fields. It’s that magical time when Ireland truly earns its “emerald” reputation! How are things in your part of the world today?

I’m enjoying a Maher’s coffee as I write, and I hope you’ll join me with whatever you fancy as we start into today’s letter. This week, I want to share something special with you – our recent adventure to one of Ireland’s most sacred and historically significant sites: the Hill of Tara in County Meath.

 

A Royal Irish Journey: Exploring the Hill of Tara with Neil Jackman

Last week, Carina and I had the extraordinary privilege of visiting the Hill of Tara with Neil Jackman of the wonderful organisation known as Tuatha. You may already know of Neil as an archaeologist and passionate storyteller of Ireland’s ancient past. His expertise brings these historical landscapes to life in a way few others can manage.

As we approached the Hill of Tara on a bright day in spring, the gentle rise of the hill against the sky immediately communicated why our ancestors chose this special spot. Standing approximately 155 meters (512 feet) above sea level, the Hill of Tara offers commanding views across the plains of Meath – the ancient province of Midhe, the “middle kingdom.” On a clear day like we had, you can see nearly a quarter of Ireland from its summit!

“This isn’t just a hill,” Neil explained as we began our walk, “this is where Ireland’s story comes together – myth, legend, religion, and politics all converged here for thousands of years.”

 

Standing Where Kings Once Stood

The most striking feature as you walk Tara is not any single monument but rather the remarkable complex of earthworks that spread across the hilltop. Over 30 visible monuments dot the landscape, representing nearly 4,000 years of continuous importance. But so much is hidden under the ground—and within myth—which is why it is wonderful to have a guide such as Neil.

Neil guided us to the Mound of the Hostages first – a Neolithic passage tomb dating back to approximately 3,000 BC. “Long before kings ruled from Tara,” Neil shared, “our ancestors were already marking this place as special.” The name comes from much later, when High Kings would take hostages from subjugated kingdoms as insurance against betrayal – a political practice that tells us a lot about how early Irish politics operated.

We then moved to the Lia Fáil, the Stone of Destiny. Standing about 1.2 meters tall, this stone has been worn smooth by thousands of hands over the centuries. Legend holds that when the rightful High King of Ireland placed his foot upon it, the stone would roar in recognition. Neil encouraged me to place my hand on the cool surface of the stone, creating a physical connection with countless generations who had done the same.

“Can you hear it roar?” he joked with a twinkle in his eye.

 

The Feasting Halls and Royal Enclosures

The most extensive monument at Tara is Ráth na Ríogh (the Fort of the Kings), an Iron Age hilltop enclosure measuring about 1,000 feet in diameter. Walking its perimeter with Neil, I gained a new appreciation for just how massive these earthworks are – and how much organised labour would have been required to create them without modern equipment.

Inside this great enclosure lie two linked ring forts known as Teach Cormaic (Cormac’s House) and the Forradh (Royal Seat). Standing within these ancient spaces, we could picture the great féis (festivals) that would have been held here – political assemblies combined with games, music, feasting, and marriages. The air would have been filled with the sounds of harps and pipes, the smell of roasting meat, and the voices of bards reciting the genealogies of kings.

“Tara wasn’t just for the elite,” Neil emphasised. “These gatherings were for everyone – a place where the whole community came together to reaffirm their bonds.”

 

Where History and Mythology Intertwine

What makes Tara truly special is how deeply it’s woven into Ireland’s mythology. As we walked, we chatted about tales of the Tuatha Dé Danann, supernatural beings said to have brought four magical treasures to Ireland, including the Stone of Fál mentioned earlier. 

“The line between history and mythology blurs at Tara,” Neil said as we paused to take in the view. “But that’s what makes it so powerful – these stories, whether strictly factual or not, have shaped how Irish people understand themselves for centuries.”

I was particularly moved by the story of St. Patrick lighting his Paschal fire on the nearby Hill of Slane in defiance of the High King’s tradition. This symbolic confrontation between pagan Ireland and Christianity marked a turning point in our nation’s spiritual journey.

 

Tara’s Continued Significance

What struck me most about Tara was how it continues to hold meaning for people today. During our visit, we saw visitors from around the world – some clearly on personal pilgrimages to connect with their Irish heritage. Others came simply to enjoy the beauty and tranquility of this special place.

Neil pointed out that Tara has been a gathering place for important moments throughout Irish history. Daniel O’Connell held a massive political meeting here in 1843 that reportedly drew 750,000 people. More recently, Tara became a focal point for environmental protests when a motorway was planned nearby.

“Places like Tara remind us that the past isn’t really past,” Neil reflected. “These ancient sites continue to shape our relationship with the land and with each other.”

 

A Personal Connection

As our time on the Hill of Tara drew to a close, I found myself standing alone for a moment, trying to absorb the weight of history beneath my feet. How many generations had stood here before me, looking out across the same landscape? How many crucial decisions affecting the course of Irish history had been made on this spot?

There’s something profoundly moving about visiting places where you can feel the presence of those who came before. Whether your ancestors were kings or commoners, places like the Hill of Tara connect us to our shared heritage in a visceral way that history books alone cannot achieve.

I’m grateful to Neil for making these ancient stones and earthworks speak with such eloquence, for helping me see beyond the peaceful green mounds to the vibrant centre of power and culture that once existed here.

Have you ever visited the Hill of Tara? Or perhaps another ancient site that left a strong impression on you? I’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments section below.

Many thanks to Neil Jackman for his infectious enthusiasm and knowledge of all things Irish heritage. I highly recommend signing up for Neil’s weekly illustrated newsletter, where he takes you on captivating visual tours of Ireland’s remarkable ancient monuments, including the historic Hill of Tara. Subscribe here to join his free weekly illustrated newsletter.

That’s it for this week,

Slán for now,

Mike.